It was a bright and sunny dry season day in September 2019.

I was working as a scuba diving instructor on the island of Nusa Lembongan, Bali, Indonesia.

During this time of year, the water temperature drops down to an average of 19 degrees Celsius. Not ideal, especially when you’re going for two or three dives every day, but also justified as with cold water, comes rare pelagic creatures.

This time of year brings elusive marine animals towards the stunning coral reef coastline - mola molas rise with the cold water upwellings, whilst whale sharks, hammerheads, and thresher sharks pass through.

Hence, why the dry season is also called the high season. It’s when everything comes together; cold water, fish, and divers alike.

Great white sharks, however? I had never heard of that happening.

On this day, our dive boat slowly cruised into Crystal Bay in Nusa Penida, a dive site known for its impeccable visibility and vibrant coral slopes that encircle a little island in the middle of the bay. And during this time of year, known for its mola mola encounters.

Once I had all my gear on, I turned to check that my buddy had his equipment ready. We back-rolled off the side of the boat and descended into crystal clear, freezing cold water.

The beginning of the dive site consists of a sandy bottom and a large coral bombie. Flounders, garden eels, and the occasional squid hover around here. As you move along the side of the little island, the topography transforms into anemones and coral rubble - a result of earthquakes and large swells that sometimes hit the bay. Though not the most beautiful, this area is always surprising divers as it has unexpectedly become the preferred habitat for frogfish, snake eels, and longhorn cowfish. Following this section, the reef comes alive and is a showcase of some of the most vibrant corals and marine life in the Bali area. And into the blue, right off this reef, is a mola mola cleaning station.

I was at 20 meters of depth and had my face inches away from the slope of rubble in search of baby frogfish, when I glanced behind me to check on my guest. I gave him the signal for ‘Are you okay?’ and instead of responding, he pointed out into the blue behind me.

I spun around and could vaguely make out something massive. Something big, grey, and slowly swimming away. At first, I thought it was a mola mola, and so I finned slowly, staying close to the reef so as not to scare it away. We were at the same depth when I began to make out a large tail, swaying from side to side. This was not a mola mola. It was still swimming away and so my next thought was - whale shark?

I turned to my diver and urged him to come with me. We slowly swam away from the reef and towards this mysterious creature.

I was about 8 meters away when the peculiar big fish began to turn its body. It circled around and back towards the reef, exposing its very distinct white belly and grey dorsal colouring.

It was coming back towards the reef, towards us.

So here I was, face to face with a great white shark.

The ocean went silent. There was no tank-banging from the other guides and all I could hear was my own breathing.

The big beauty swam in circles. She was punching 5 meters long and was very obviously pregnant.

She was magnificent, peaceful, and unfathomably humungous.

As she did her last lap and disappeared into the blue, I turned to my diver. Instantly we started to cheer and make bubbled exclamations.

I looked up at all the other dive groups that were at the site - each and every one of them were having their own little dance parties. As we ascended to join the underwater celebration, high-fives and hugs were passed around in a whirl of disbelief, bubbles, shock, and happiness.

As we broke the surface of the water our ears were met with an eruption of cheers. Exclamations and roars of excitement from our crew, other dive boats, and divers.

We joined in with the whooping and hollers of joy. The entire bay was alive and buzzing with exhilaration and euphoria.

This was the day I came face to face with a great white shark.

Written by Kayli Wouters

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