Some of us find our flow state in the 4-6 foot region. Some of us prefer 2-3. Whilst others, crave the 10+ foot monsters. Riding water giants and overcoming liquid beasts is a segment of the surfing world that we call big wave surfing.

Just like any other size of waves, big wave surfing leads to inevitable nose dives, rail catches, wipe outs, and hold downs - the only difference is with bigger waves, comes a fickle line between a life and death situation.

It is a whole different ball game to regular surfing, and thus requires different equipment, a higher commitment to preparation, and a trained and maintained mind and body. Here, we will discuss what big wave surfers do, and what you can do, to progress towards surfing bigger waves.

Outside of surfing:

It is obviously essential to maintain body fitness. But aside from this, what needs to be focussed on is training the mind and the lungs to control panic, make efficient use of oxygen, and stay calm in high intensity situations (when you are held under).

Exercises that can be beneficial to this are freediving, underwater rock running, yoga and meditation.

It is also beneficial to gather information about whatever spot it is that you’re going to paddle out to. This includes the bottom contour of the site, rip currents, take off points, and observing how the waves and lines approach the breaking point.

It also doesn’t hurt to get to know the safety team in the area and their abilities, in order to feel confident when you paddle out.

Equipment:

Invest in a helmet. Your brain is precious.

If you’re going for the XL or XXL conditions, get a buoyancy/inflatable vest. These can save your life if you get stuck in the impact zone and sets are still coming.

Get a board that is big enough. None of this short board business will work. You’re looking at guns that can be anywhere between 6 to 12 feet long depending on your own build and skill. Bigger boards will get you into waves earlier, which is vital to big wave surfing. You definitely don’t want to be air dropping right off the bat (I think). Guns are also generally more thick, making them more durable for the bigger waves and wipeouts. They have narrow frames and rounded pin tails that allow you to dig and push into a bigger face without slipping out. Extra glassing also adds to it’s durability, whilst at the same time allowing you to cut through choppy water well.

In the line up:

Before you venture into unknown territory for bigger waves, it helps to get really comfortable surfing the biggest waves at your home break first. The idea is to take the process step-by step and get used to bigger waves gradually, and at a comfortable pace.

Never surf alone in big waves. Ideally, paddle out with more experienced surfers than yourself to gain knowledge and insights into the extreme sport, to stay safe, and look out for one another. And, it’s also just more fun to surf with friends right?

When you’re paddling for a wave, don’t hesitate. You have to commit. Because sometimes you will fall and sometimes you will make it, but - if you never try, you’ll never know.

When held under, go into fetal position, protect your head, stay calm and let the water move you around. Don’t try to fight the flow because that’s how you lose oxygen and start to panic. You want to keep your heart rate low so as to conserve what you have (freediving will teach you this).

And last of all, remember to have fun! If you’re not smiling after a surf session then what was the point of it?

Learning to surf bigger waves takes time. It is a process that requires a lot of hours invested and focus. But if you’re willing to put in the work, what are you waiting for?

Written by Kayli Wouters

LinkedIn | Instagram