The love for the ocean, the love for the feeling, and the love for the constantly changing conditions—these are the reasons why we love to surf.

As surfers, we yearn for a life that is fresh and exciting—a life that is constantly evolving and surprising us. Surfing has the unique ability to bring us to new places, invite us into new experiences, and throw us into new relationships with people of similar interests and passions. Being a surfer means depending on the ocean and what it decides to bring.

It’s living a life that is never static and a life that is never the same every day because a wave is never the same every day. The tides change, the swells grow or lessen, and the winds and weather patterns move through their motions. All of these work together to provide surfers with conditions that grant the utmost happiness. No two surfs are ever the same, and that is why we love it.

As surfers, we are always looking for the next adrenaline fix. Surfing is a physically demanding sport and thus, a physically satisfying sport. To be out in the lineup is to not only push our physical limits but also expand our mental boundaries. Hitting that last section even if the face is more than vertical, giving one extra paddle to get into that set wave, going back out after getting smoked, and keeping calm when someone tries to snake you.

Surfing is a huge mental game that tests the boundaries of fear, movement, and inner tranquility. The challenges of surfing—making the drops, sticking out maneuvers, and getting through barrels—are all elements of what keeps us surfing. It’s the essence of the rush that we feel when a new swell is on the forecast or when a surf trip with our buddies aligns. It’s knowing that these challenges are all makable possibilities and that they are all within reach through practice, consistency, and integrity. The thrill and satisfaction from riding waves and anticipating waves is why we love surfing.

As surfers, we rely on the ocean. Our source of happiness comes from Mother Nature and the swells that she brings. As surfers, we are also directly impacted by the changing climate, the alternating global weather patterns, and the overall state of our oceans. We see firsthand the beauty of the deep blue, floating on a glassy surface with head-high rollers coming through, as the sun sets on the horizon, illuminating the sky and setting the clouds on fire.

Surfing nurtures a relationship between humans and the natural environment, which is essential for the survival of our species on planet Earth. We see the immediate impacts of climate change, plastic pollution, ocean acidification, and dead zones. This is the space where we feel the most alive and the most happy, and so, it is a space that we need to strive to protect and safeguard for ourselves, others, and generations to come.

Surfing is only a small fraction of the many communities of people who rely on the ocean for their livelihoods, for enjoyment, and for healing. As surfers, the ocean brings us a form of jubilation that can’t easily be found anywhere else. We have immense love for the ocean, and that is why we love surfing.

Our passion for the ocean, the exhilarating sensation of wave riding, and the dynamic changes it offers in our lifestyle encapsulate the essence of why surfing holds a special place in our hearts.

Written by Kayli Wouters

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